Realistic Lightning Effects

One of the exciting new additions to Eye Candy 7 is the Lightning effect. Unlike actual lightning in nature, you have fine control over where the bolt appears and what it looks like. This lets you decide how to add drama to outdoor scenes like the one below.

Check out this video about the Lightning effect in Eye Candy and learn how to make lightning shots like this yourself.

You can download and use Eye Candy 7 in trial mode if you don’t own it already.

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Flickr Thursday

Here are our selections from the Alien Skin Flickr pool for the week. Thanks everyone who shared!

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Group Presets in Exposure

Here is a new video tutorial about group presets in Exposure. Complete presets such as Fuji Velvia 100F change every parameter to achieve the look. In contrast, group presets only change a handful of parameters at a time. For example, you can build a custom vignette and save just the vignette for future use, just like I do in the video.

The photo used was provided by Luc Coiffait. Thanks Luc!

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Exposure Grain Size

Let’s talk about how to control film grain size in Exposure. First, I’ll acknowledge that individual film grains can only be seen with a microscope. The little fractal lumps you can see in film are clusters of many grains. Still, let’s use the term grains to refer to those visible lumps, since that is what most people mean.

The bottom of the Grain tab is where you control grain size.

Automatic On

The Automatic checkbox is on for all of the factory presets. In this mode, we use a model of your image as a piece of physical film. If you scan a piece of film, the number of grains is the same regardless of the scanner resolution. Similarly, in automatic mode Exposure chooses the number of grains based only on your choice of film stock and format, not the number of pixels in your image. The grain pixel size is adjusted to achieve the proper number of grains.

Suppose you apply an Exposure factory preset to 6MP (MP = Megapixels) and 24MP images and then print them both at 8×10 inches. They will both look like they have the same grain. That is the purpose of automatic grain size. If you use Photoshop to zoom to 100% then you will see that the grains are twice as many pixels big in the 24MP image, but when printed the grains are the same physical size.

The factory presets use 135 format (36×24 mm), but you can choose medium or large format film to decrease grain size.

You can also adjust grain size with the Relative Size slider. As a bit of trivia, 1.0 happens to be Fuji Reala in 135 format, but that choice was arbitrary.

Automatic Off

If you turn Automatic off then you can directly control grain size in terms of pixels. It is easy to understand the concept that your grains are 2 pixels big. However, in this approach your grain size does not increase when you go from working on a 6MP image to a 24MP image. The 24MP image will have twice as many grains in each dimension. The result is that both images printed at the same physical size (8×10 inches, for instance) results in the 24MP print having much smaller (and less visible) grain. That is why Automatic is on in all the factory presets.

Small Images

There is one caveat to the automatic grain size system. Grain size will never get below 1.5 pixels. Below that size, grain becomes digital noise with no clumpy natural quality and that’s just ugly. This means that images below about 3MP will usually be stuck at 1.5 pixel grain.

Blur

In real film, if you make a huge enlargement then you will not see any detail smaller than the grain size. With Exposure that is not true. If you zoom in on a very high resolution photo then your original image detail is there under the grain lumps. It would be more realistic to give the image a blur at a radius about half the size of the grain, but we chose to leave blur out of most presets. Such destructive operations are best left to the photographer. You can do a very small blur in Exposure’s Focus tab. However, I wouldn’t do a blur unless you have turned on very strong grain, are printing at a very large size, and really want to create the blurry feel of a film enlargement.

Taking Control

If you frequently adjust grain size, then I encourage you to save some presets. That is an easy way to get consistent results.

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First walk with the Olympus OM-D E-M5

worm on a turkey tail fungus

As I mentioned in the article on choosing a mirrorless camera, I bought the Olympus OM-D E-M5. I recommend also getting the Wasabi charger that is more compact than the one from Olympus.

I went for a walk in the woods to get a feel for the camera. I wasn’t familiar with the controls, so results will certainly improve over time. For example, you can see in these photos that the default auto white balance is warm. Since then I turned off that setting. There is a terrific guide to the E-M5 controls at DPReview.com by R. Butler and Timur Born. I’m starting to like the user interface, especially the touch screen, electronic viewfinder, and tilting screen.

I have three lenses: M. Zuiko 12-50mm f/3.5-6.3 kit lens, Panasonic 14mm f/2.5 pancake, and Panasonic 45-200mm f/4.0-5.6. On this walk I used the M. Zuiko 12-50mm f/3.5-6.3. It is weather sealed, like the camera body, which is great for rainy forests. I already got a little water on the camera a few times. So far so good! This lens is handy for a variety of situations. It has a macro mode, which was engaged for most of the photos in this article.

On some of these photos I used the Exposure preset Fuji Velvia 100F from the Color Films – Slide folder. On the Color tab, I turned down Overall Intensity to keep the effect subtle. Grain was off, so any texture you see is from sensor noise.

dacrymyces orange jelly fungus

ISO 1600, Dacrymyces jelly fungus

These next four images can be seen at full resolution in case you want to see noise at various ISO settings. Two of the photos are cropped, but they have not been resized. Click a photo to see the larger size.

macro photo of decayed leaf

ISO 200, Leaf

turkey tail fungus

ISO 800, Trametes versicolor (Turkey Tail)

galerina marginata mushroom on the side of a log

ISO 1250, Galerina marginata

underside view of the gills of a galerina marginata mushroom

ISO 1600, Galerina marginata

I need more time to develop firm opinions, but so far I’m happy with my E-M5!

P.S. Here is a shot after I turned off the warm white balance.

small waterfall long exposure photo

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Adjusting exposure using Exposure 4

We received a question about lighting techniques when you plan to use Exposure in your post processing workflow. The blog article can be found here. This did, however, bring up another interesting question. You can find the original support article here.

Question

How do I increase the exposure of my image without an exposure slider, like the ones in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) and Lightroom?

Answer

In Exposure 4, you can use the Midtones slider on the Tone tab. This is a great way to increase the brightness of your image without clipping your highlights or shadows.

Here is an example of an underexposed image.

Original image

original_whiter_-_Under.jpg

 

Using the exposure slider in ACR. Setting was increased to +1.50.

original_whiter_-_ACR.jpg

 

Using the Midtones slider in Exposure. Setting was +84 Midtone.

original_whiter_-_Exposure.jpg

 

There are multiple presets on the tone tab that can handle common adjustments like this. Though, some minor tweaks may need to be made to get the exact effect you are after.

presets.jpg

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Flickr Thursday

Here are our selections from the Alien Skin Flickr pool for the week. Thanks everyone who shared!

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Choosing a Mirrorless Camera

I decided to buy a mirrorless camera. Why? I mostly do travel photography and macro shots in tight locations, like under logs. I’m grateful for any decrease in size and weight compared to a DSLR.

So, I started reading…and reading… There are plenty of great web articles on mirrorless cameras. I’m happy to report that the decision is difficult only because there are so many good options. If you are interested in mirrorless cameras then take a look at these resources.

Shawn Blanc wrote a summary of the most popular cameras. Shawn does a good job of quickly introducing you to all the players. After reading much more detail elsewhere, I think Shawn did a good job.

For a pro photographer viewpoint, Steve Huff has written extensively on mirrorless cameras and lenses. His articles are collected in Mirrorless Central. Steve agrees that there are plenty of good choices. You just have to decide what features are most important to you.

Sony RX1

If you don’t mind spending $3000, then the Sony RX1 is a sexy choice. It has a full frame sensor and a very high quality lens. As tempting as it was, I skipped it because you can’t swap out the lens.

Sony NEX Line

For a comparison of the Fuji XE-1 and the Sony NEX-6, see this informative video.

I was tempted by the Sony NEX line because its sensors are high quality. They are larger than the Micro Four Thirds sensors used by most mirrorless cameras. I’m a nerd, so I enjoyed Peter van den Hamer’s article on DxOMark scores, but let me warn you that it is extremely long and technical. The summary is that mirrorless cameras produce good image quality and the NEX line stands out above the rest.

It is easy to get fixated on numbers like DxOMark because those are easy to compare, but that is not the whole picture. You wouldn’t choose a camera just because it has more megapixels, right? The Sony NEX line was tempting, but in the end I passed. Many people criticized the user interface, menus in particular. More important, there aren’t a lot of E-mount lens choices compared to the Micro Four Thirds cameras.

Olympus OM-D E-M5

My final choice was the Olympus OM-D E-M5. It has a reputation for being fun to use and there are plenty of lens options. Particularly appropriate for me, the body is weather sealed and so are a few of the lenses. I’ll share my photos and experiences as I get to know my new little friend!

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Eye Candy Gold Video

Here is a new video about gold in Eye Candy 7. I demonstrate techniques for making gold using several different effects from shiny gold chrome to old rusty gold.

As mentioned in the video, here is a custom settings file for the Chrome effect in Eye Candy. Please right click this link and choose “Save Link As”.

You will need Eye Candy 7 installed for it to work. You can download and use Eye Candy in trial mode if you don’t own it.

Save the preset to your desktop first. In most browsers, right-click the link and choose Save As. That should give you a file with the extension .f1s.

Double-click the .f1s file to install and the next time you run Eye Candy 7, you should see Gold Foil in the User Settings list of the Chrome effect.

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Flickr Thursday

Here are our selections from the Alien Skin Flickr pool for the week. Thanks everyone who shared!

Posted in Fun, Photography | Tagged | Leave a comment